Squash,_Black_Bean,_Goat_Cheese_Tamales_(phil_g)

I don’t even like tamales. My Mexican friends think that makes me prissy.

But let’s just set the record straight.

I don’t like polenta either or hominy or grits. It’s not that I’m particularly against tamales, just that grainy corn masa that sits in your belly like a lead weight.

Regardless, I had to try out Tamales “Doña Emi” – those aren’t my quotes, that’s what it says on the sign, like Doña Emi is code for something else.

Dona Emi’s is a fourth generation family business one block from my house in the Roma. When you walk in, her slightly disapproving face looks down at you from a frame on the wall, almost daring you to order the wrong thing.

It’s ten by the time I get there, the place is still packed with people and they only have two kinds of tamales left, the jumbo-sized mushroom and pork tamale or the regular-size pork in green sauce. Not that the regular is small – about the size of a baby’s arm.

Later when Emi’s great grandson gives me the list of all the kinds they make — in case I want them to cater an event — I see that they have rajas con queso which is a guisado I love and also lomo de cerdo con aceitunas (pork with olives) that I must admit I’m curious about.

The only thing to drink is atole (a hot, milky drink made out of what else – corn) and rice milk. I figure I should go all out and get the atole while I’m taking the day to celebrate corn products.

The tamale basics are this: The corn is ground into the size of rough meal and mixed with lard to make a thick, pasty dough. Then clean corn husks or banana leaves get the dough spread into them like mustard on a bread roll – but thicker. Whatever salsa is going in (red or green) gets smeared onto the dough and then a few pieces of chicken or pork are placed in the middle and the little corn husk envelope is folded up and tied with a string and placed in a giant steamer.

What happens in there is pretty amazing, because what was once a few thin layers of corn meal and salsa puff up into this full blown corn bomb.

Once at Christmastime I helped make something like 500 tamales in a day. The Ramirez family, whom I was helping, lived in a tiny farm community and according to tradition they fed members of the Christmas procession tamales on Christmas Eve as they passed by the house. They plan on average 5 or 6 tamales per person. What?!

I couldn’t even finish my regular-sized pork in green sauce tamale at Doña Emi’s and I could feel her chastising me from the wall, telling me not to waste good food. But it was delicious – tangy, spicy, with delicious enough pork that I was searching around for it among the layers of corn. And now I understand why comida is at 3pm, cause I’m going back to bed to sleep off all this corn.



@MexCityStreets

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By Lydia Carey

I have been living in and writing about Mexico for 15 years and Mexico City for almost 10 of those. My writing focuses on food, history, local culture, and all the amazing stories that this place has to tell. I also give food and history tours in the city and am the author of the book "Mexico City Streets: La Roma" about Colonia Roma, the neighborhood where I live.

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