These two neighborhoods have become some of my favorite to hang out in the past few years, with a growing number of cool places to eat and drink and lovely residential streets for walking around. Just south of Roma, Narvarte and Del Valle encompass a huge swatch of land, so these suggestions are just a tiny snapshot of a few places I love here — there is so much more to explore and I am sure I will over time.
Food
Fonda Margarita – Still one of the city’s favorite breakfast spots, Fonda Margarita has been in business for over 60 years slinging guisados, cafe de olla, churros and those refried bean eggs of theirs. Regardless of what Anthony Bourdian thought, the locals LOVE Fonda Margarita and you will too, you just have to get up early to get there (they close at 11am).
Las Tlayudas – New ownership means we are edgy to see to if Las Tlayudas will continue to make our stomachs happy, but for now I give it a loud recommendation. The guac with chipil is like crack and the Tlayudas are just as good as a streetstand in Oaxaca. Also try the frijoles de olla (beans) and the freakin’ CHILAQUILES — you won’t regret it.
Helados QBE – A passion favorite in the neighborhood, QBE is admittedly much better than most of the commercial ice cream shops I have stumbled upon in Mexico City. I still think the consistency (for milk-based flavors) is a little too gooey for me, but the dark chocolate was almost perfect. They have great Mexican flavors like mamey fruit, pomegranate, and when mandarins are in season there is nothing better than their mandarin sorbet.
Tizne Tacomotora – A new discovery for me, these guys have a pretty simple menu with really complex flavors and a particular focus on smoke. The brisket taco made to taste like Korean BBQ was phenomenal and the burnt avocados with smoky salt where delicious even for someone not in love with avocados (that would be me). Pork belly, al pastor BBQ, brisket — what’s not to love really.
Vilsito – In my opinion, the city’s best taco al pastor, this mechanic-shop-cum-taco-stand is one of the Narvarte’s culinary stars. There are plenty of other things on the menu, but why bother? With three massive spits that they seem to finish off each night, you know it’s gotta be good.
Los Pericos – A family favorite, Los Pericos has the usual suspects: bistec, pastor, longaniza, alambres, but my favorite is the queso de chicharron as big as your arm. SO MUCH CHEESE you won’t know what to do with yourself. The setting is lively every night and the prices can’t be beat (al pastor for a mere 8p).
AlmaNegra – Known for their excellent coffee and knowledgeable staff, this tiny blink-and-you-miss-it coffeeshop has all the modern preparations (including coldbrew) but don’t count on seats (there is a bench outside). If you run into Octavio the owner, be sure to pick his brain about Mexican coffee, he’s a professional coffee sommelier.
Maria Fortunata Bakery – I love their pastries and desserts.
Pansilvania – Amazing sourdough breads and the Babka is heavenly
Cafe Maria – A great little coffeeshop with pastries and breakfast.
Pan Nube – The pastries here are the stars — croissants, tortilla española, giant cinnamon rolls, apricot scones, pound cake and much more. The space is cozy and homey as there are always a half dozen bakers in the back bustling around and the front of the house staff are friendly as can be. I would suggest skipping their coffee, but that’s just me.
Bigotes de Leche – Milk mustaches is what you can expect as you gobble down the artisan ice cream in this tiny storefront. Last time I went there was green tea, lavender, some other delicious and wild flavor combinations, but the menu constantly changes so you will have to go and see for yourself.
Taquería Don Frank – I am grumpy about the Don Frank outpost we have in the Roma (it’s just not that good) but this I believe is the original and I love it every time I go. Try the…
Mandrake – Another mini spot sitting up under an apartment building on an unassuming street in Del Valle, the Mandrake does just coffee and does it well. If you are hankering for something though, they do sell mini chocolate eclairs and donuts.
Mercado Lazaro Cardenas – This small neighborhood market has a feel-good layout to it with a clump of small flower stands brightening up the middle of the aisles. It’s famous for Passmar, the coffee and breakfast spot, which locals absolutely love. For me, the coffee is a little weak, but the experience is still fun. There is also an organic stand selling eggs and some bulk goods (a sign of the gentrification already taking hold here) as well as a bakery, key maker, shoe repair and all the other things you have come to expect at a local market. I haven’t even attempted to try all the food stands in the place, but some are unendingly cute and look like little restaurants instead of your average fonda. Go there, soak it in, and eat.
Malportaco – One of the best discoveries of the past year or two. Malportaco has incredible vegan tacos that even a non-vegan will like. Try the taco placero with Mexican pepperleaf and wheat chicharrón, the arrachera or the menudo soup, all meat-free, all delicious. They also serve great agua frescas and mezcal.
Pinche gringo – Ok so it’s not the best BBQ in the world, but we don’t have that many options in Mexico City, and I when I can’t stand my barbecue craving any longer this more than fits the bill. The set-up with picnic tables is cute and they also host all kinds of events throughout the week and for U.S. holidays so watch out or you might get caught up in a Trivia standoff before you know it.
Ela Gyros – I found these gyros to be pretty good, although gyros are not my expertise. I think for a craving you will be happy, but go and tell me what you think…
Tianguis on California Street – A small weekly tianguis runs the length of California street up to the traffic circle on Thursday will lots of street food stands and take-away food stands.
Drink
Manada – Opened in 2023, Manada is a slim little bar with just a handful of bar stools and a few tables scattered about. The cocktails are a step above what you would expect to find in Narvarte, a neighborhood not known for its hip scene or trendy bars (yet). But part of why it’s so good is partner/owner Anais Martinez, aka The Curious Mexican, a long-time mover and shaker in the city’s food scene with an impeccable palate for all things delicious. A manada is the Spanish word for a pack and you will find lots of quirky and fun little animal curios that add a little whimsy to the industrial chic interior.
HOP 2 – A massive beer garden, they do have a grand selection but the joy of beer abounding is tampered in me here because of the annoying way you have to order — by logging in to their wi-fi and looking at their list online. The service also leaves something to be desired. That said, for a Sunday afternoon or an evening watching the game (several big screens are set up around the central hall) I think this is a nice spot with passable American-style bar food. (The other HOP locations, like the one in Juarez, beat this one in my opinion)
Beer Bros – One of my first loves in the Narvarte, Beer Bros keeps it small and simple with their sliver of a space on Luz Saviñon (right around the corner from Quiero Pizza). They a more limited but definitely delicious selection of craft beer from around the world. Cozy and intimate, it’s my first choice for a beer in these neighborhoods.
Metropolitana – A craft beer tap room that feels like the snack bar at a high school basketball game. They have a dozen or so craft beers on tap from brewers across the city and their own brewery
Architecture
Parroquia del Purísimo Corazón de María – I haven’t been lucky enough to get inside this church yet, but the outside alone is IMPRESSIVE. This church saw the filming of several scenes for Romeo and Juliet, including the featuring of its famous Jesus in that overhead shot in the movie. It was also where Luis Miguel was baptized so there you go.
Iglesia de la Medalla de la Virgen Milagrosa – Not many Catholic churches almost hurt to look at them but the sharp edges and soaring peaks of the Medalla de la Virgen Milagrosa sorts makes me want to shield my eyes. Still, the architecture, done at the hands of innovating Spanish architect Félix Candela, is fascinating and shouldn’t be missed, especially if modern architecture and unusual structural form is your jam. Also see the Templo de Santa Mónica in Del Valle that was also designed by Candela.
Tower of the Secretariat of Communication and Transportation – A tiled mural created by muralist Juan O’Gorman greets you as the tower’s facade
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