Best Bars and Restaurants in San Miguel de Allende
I will be the first to admit that this is not an exhaustive list, but there will be more updates down the road so just stay tuned. San Miguel de Allende is a UNESCO world heritage city, a long-time center of the arts, and once a upon a time my hometown. I landed in San Miguel almost 20 years ago and it became an easy entry into Mexico that caused me to fall in love with this incredible country and decide to stay for two more decades.
While I would prefer to travel to other places these days, I can’t deny that San Miguel still has a certain amount of charm with its cobblestone streets and amber-colored evenings. In addition to that the city has acquired some incredible bars and restaurants in the last couple of years (along with tried and true options that have withstood the test of time). I would love to hear your feedback about what your favorite restaurants in San Miguel de Allende are feel free to shoot me a message with suggestions. Until then, these are MY favorite restaurants and bars in San Miguel.
Restaurants
Fari – This adorable Italian bistro on the Salida Celaya has wood-fired pizzas oven that turns out some incredible pies, including the fluffy and slightly crisp pizza frita with mortadella, green olives and basil paste. I would like to start out every happy hour here with a Vermuti and Lillet Spritz.
The Restaurant – One of my favorite places in San Miguel run by one of my favorite people — Chef Donnie Masterson — The Restaurant has been making consistently amazing food since it opened almost 20 years ago. The burgers are burger night are divine and so is every. other. thing. on the menu. There is also now a small bar attached to the restaurant’s main patio which I also love. Inside one of those old Moorish-inspired houses in SMA, the restaurant has a vibe and delicious food.
Bocaciega – By far the best thing I had on a recent trip, the Greek food at Bocaciega just blows other restuarants in San Miguel out of the water completely. The lamb burger was divine, and squid ink pasta was vibrant, delicate, and subtle.
Then there are the drinks. I ordered a Vodka with dill and I swear to god it was like walking through a field of wildflowers in the spring, and the martini with sweet and sour pickles smelled like my mother’s perfume when I was a child. Either I am insane or the drinks were, either way, a must if you are headed to San Miguel.
Cumpanio – Always one of my favorites for bread and pastries, they now have a little empire in San Miguel with the original location, plus Panio on the Salida Celaya and now Hortus on the main plaza. Nothing is wild or unheard of but the dishes are consistently well done and the sweets are amazing.
Lavanda – You wouldn’t think that a lavender latte would be good, at least I wouldn’t, but you would be wrong. Lavanda has a sophisticated list of coffees and preparations, from lavender cold brews to a coffee cherry infusions, as well as great breakfasts like an egg cazuela with potatoes, mushrooms, bacon, tomatoes, and a ranchera salsa or two scrambled eggs in red sauce with black beans, onions and epazote. Oh and the garambullo soda is a must.
Oko – I feel like these guys are one of the few underappreciated places in San Miguel, with a blend of Viatnamese and Thai dishes are always bright, colorful and full of big, fresh flavor. I love the Banh Mi sandwiches, the cold noodle bowls and the curry wrap. They have a nice little outdoor patio that even though it’s in the middle of a parking lot is still a delight.
Ten Ten Pie – Homey, comforting, Ten Ten Pie has stood the test of the time. A delicious burger or a steak on the grill with a decently priced glass of red wine? What could be better?
Panina – A nice stop for breakfast or a coffee and pastries on Sterling Dickinson. I had a killer cinnamon roll and some Turkish eggs that I loved.
Bars
El Manantial – One of my old steadfasts, El Manantial is the greatest place in the world for an evening or two. A lively crowd, simple drinks and beers and a delicious menu of seafood dishes and simple Mexican fare done well. It has a special place in my heart and in my stomach and I love the swinging doors you have to walk through like a long-lost cowboy to get in.
Bekeb – A bit of trend in San Miguel it seems, Bekeb also had incredible drinks and a Meh vibe. We were there on a Sunday night so I am going to give them a bit of a pass, but Bekeb is located inside the Live Aqua on the end of downtown San Miguel and i just don’t think there is ever a lively crowd there.
But these were definitely some of the best drinks we had — delicious combinations like the Damiana (Guaycura Damiana Liquor, Poire Williams Eau-de-vie, vermouth, and pear liqueur), the Milk Punch Dragones (Tequila, Rhubarb liqueur, grapefruit and lemon), and a martini-like cocktails served wit basil oil and a tiny flute of salty cheese whose name I cannot remember. I would go back for any of them.
Tonana – I guess you could call the ambiance quirky — with indigenous stone carvings that didn’t exactly seem legitimate but fun all the same, some weird kind of ethereal music that oscillated between fun and a yoga class soundtrack. But the drinks!!! Everything we tried was fantastic, but in particular the Negroni Tonana (pictured above) with cherry-tomato-infused gin, pineapple-infused Campari, Nixta, and Punt E Mes, as well as the Madre Cosmos with cacao-infused EspadÃn mezcal, fig cordial, lavender bitters, and mineral water. I will put up with the music any day for cocktails like that.
Tunki – Feels like in San Miguel we were always arriving at the last minute, but I actually think it’s just that’s it’s a small town where things close early, and/or shut own early if they don’t have customers. Such was the situation with Tunki that we had to do a little begging and pleading with the Belmond hotel people to let us have one drink before they closed. (Tunki is on the rooftop of one of their hotels in a speakeasy style where you have to ask at the front desk and they walk you over).
I don’t know why every bar in San Miguel is a rooftop making them a bit chilly a lot of the year-round. The ambiance seemed just normal, although we saw it without a crowd so who knows. Again, the limited drinks we were able to have were fire; the menu was created by the same folks as Mexico City’s Handshake bar. The Pornstar Martini was sharp with a hint of bittersweet from the Prosecco and the Coconut and Pandan Negroni was a creamy sip of heaven.
La Mezcaleria – A little hole-in-the-wall place this is obviously a family-owned business managed with a lot of pride in their mezcal, pulque, and food menu. We arrived almost at closing time and so didn’t get a chance to try any food which I hear is phenomenal, but the mezcal (their own brand) was excellent as well as the pulque. The service was so warm and welcoming and I will definitely be back.
Shops
Luna de Queso – Not just in San Miguel de Allende, this might be one of my favorite shops in the world. The owner Mariana just has a knack for filling the shelves and countertops with all the delicious things that your heart could desire. Hard-to-get spices, imported tinned fish, cute little sets of cheese knives, and a million other things that you will want to buy immediately. You must try the marinaded Greek olives, the local cheeses (both Mariana’s parents make cheese), and some of homemade salads to go. There is a little cafe in the back where you can get sandwiches and lunch items.
To Stay
Suites Santo Domingo – We stayed at the absolutely delightful Suites Santo Domingo, who offer a variety of suite sizes, all of which come with a little kitchen area and some are full-fledged apartments. They rent them on both nightly and long-term basis, are pet friendly an have on-site parking. The hotel’s central patio is delightfully overflowing with green things and the fruit trees in the back yard beg you to pluck yourself a snack.
