jazz fest polanco mexico city

There are almost constant events happening in this massive metropolis throughout the year. The fact that even as a resident I often miss them (What? MACO was last week?!), made me want to put together a list of as many of our beloved annual events as possible.

So much art, culture, and food to be had in Mexico City, you just have to plan ahead. Some of these events are more tourist-friendly than others. Some require a strong understanding of Spanish to really dig deep. But many, including art festivals and food festivals, are universal and fun for everyone despite language barriers. Maybe this list will give you some inspiration for the next plane ticket or bus ride to the capital!

February

Los Niños Dios – This is a tradition that actually begins on Three Kings Day (Dia de Los Reyes) when families gather together for Rosca de Reyes cake. If you get a slice with a tiny baby Jesus figurine in it that means you are responsible for the Baby Jesus doll of the Christmas nativity scene until February of the same year (Dia de Candelaria, February 2nd). Your responsibilities include getting your niño a new outfit, fixing any part of him that might be broken, and bringing him to church on February 2nd to be blessed. The blessing masses are one of the best new things I have experienced in Mexico and I think last year I really hit the jackpot when I ventured out to the neighborhood of Candelaria and celebrated the midnight mass at the local church. It’s a fair-like vibe with food, games, and drinking, as well as the baby Jesus and lots of fireworks.

Tamal Fair (La Feria de Tamal) – This is the place to try every kind of tamal you have ever heard even hinted at. And there’s also hot chocolate so why not? It’s held each year the last couple days of January until February 2nd or 3rd. The fair sets up in Coyoacan at the Museo Nacional de Culturas Populares. There’s no official website for the event but there are announcements about it on the Museum’s Facebook page each year. All you really need to know is the location (Hidalgo 289, Coyoacan) in order to show up and chow down. The entrance is free, but the calories will cost ya!

ZONA MACO – The Zona Maco is one of the most highly regarded art festivals in the Americas. This is a great opportunity to see new and emerging artists and visit so many of the city’s awesome galleries. The festival is put on in two sections, one in February and one in September, but the big show is really the February version. You can see a list of showings, talks, exhibits, and workshops on the official website: https://zsonamaco.com/

International Book Fair at the Palacio de Minería (Feria Internacional del Libro del Palacio de Minería) – In 2021 this awesome book fair went virtual because of Covid which is a crying shame because it’s one of my favorite in-person events. First of all, because the Palacio de Minería is one of the most gorgeous buildings in the city — just stunning– and you can’t always get in there on a regular day. Also because of the sheer quantity of books available in every genre. Warning, most everything is in Spanish, but the author talks are also phenomenal. Every year it’s held from the third week of February to the first week of March. Hopefully, it will soon be back in person. www.filmineria.unam.mx.

© UNAM

March

Ambulante Film Festival– Every year the Ambulante film festival tours around the country offering over 100 documentaries in over 150 venues. Most screenings include panels with activists, critics, and filmmakers. This is another of my favorite festivals, in particular, because they are committed to providing access to documentaries for people and places that might not see them otherwise. Most of the screenings are free to the public, you just have to show up in advance for a ticket. The festival is generally from the beginning of March until May of the same year. www.ambulante.org

April

International Jazz Festival of Polanco (Festival Internacional de Jazz de Polanco) – This is a festival which I never seem to remember in time to get tickets to, but the praise it gets from jazz fans is enough for me to recommend it. Each year events are held twice, the first in April and the second in December, both either the first or second week of the month. The events take place at the splendid Teatro Ángela Peralta in Polanco, a small outdoor bandshell and pavilion in Parque Lincoln. Get tickets ahead of time for sure at Boletia.com or follow them on Facebook or Instagram for updates (right now there is no official website for the festival)

© Jazz Festival de Polanco

Fashion Week Mexico City is a semi-annual fashion week event sponsored by Mercedes Benz and held in Mexico City and around the country. The Autumn/Winter fashion week takes place during the late first quarter of the year, and the Spring/Summer fashion week is held during the early fourth quarter of the year according to Wikipedia. The official website is probably the least helpful in terms of logistics that I have ever seen — almost all the answers on the FAQ are that you should follow them on social media and stay attentive to their page in order to stay up-to-date on Fashion week plans. Still the mix of local and international designers might make it worth your while to do so. https://fashionweek.mx/

July

Mexico City Independent Film Festival (Festival de Cine Independiente de la Ciudad de Mexico)– Each July the city hosts the Independent Film Festival. For about a week several dozen films divided into shorts and full-length pieces are shown at various locations throughout the city. It’s always a good mix of national and foreign productions. In this case, their website is extremely easy to use and has detailed information about the year’s program. Some presentations are free. festivalcineindependiente.com

August

Mexico City Marathon – If you can run at 700 feet above sea level and through the Mexico City smog you can run anywhere. Each year (except 2020 because of Covid) at the end of August or beginning of September thousands of runners from around the world run the course that from what I can understand in 2019 switched from starting in the Alameda downtown to starting at the Estadio Olympica in the south of the city and ending at the Zocalo, the city’s main square. The official website is: maraton.cdmx.gob.mx, but clicking on the English there will take you to a page on worldsmarathons.com. (The 2021 edition has been moved to November 28th).

© Carl Campbell

October

Feria Nacional de Mole (The National Mole Fair) – Ok so this one is a little bit outside of the city in San Pedro Atocpan, but if you love mole (or even think you might), you have to go and see this mole extravaganza! San Pedro Atocpan is known as the mole mecca and provides more than 90% of the mole that you find in the city’s markets. There are dozens of restaurants here serving up traditional mole dishes, stands selling mole powders and pastes, and a whole section with all the kitchen accouterments that you need to make and serve your own mole. There are also Papantla flyers and fair rides. It’s quite an event.

Cerveza Mexico – One of my personal favorites, this annual beer festival hosts craft breweries from across the country and it is so, so, so, fun. Basically, you wander around for hours drinking beer and eating bar food, which might be my favorite activity of all time. If you are a beer maker yourself they offer various talks and workshops about the business of making and selling brew. There’s also judging and medals handed out, but the only real judge is you and your tastebuds. www.cervezamexico.com

Celebration of St. Jude (Dia de San Judas de Tadeo) – This event is not for the meek or mild traveler. It’s basically a mix of a rough-and-tumble street party, a religious holiday, and the set-up for mass crowd injury. But it’s amazing. Swarms of people come out on October 28th each year and head to the Templo de San Hipolito church in the city’s Centro carrying their icons and statues of St. Jude, a favorite saint among the working-class neighborhoods of Mexico City. They wait in line for hours to go in and get their statues blessing by holy water, smoking weed, drinking beers, and praying as they wait. Read this story I wrote a few years back for a full picture.

Formula One Racing – Each year in late October Formula One racecar drivers from all over the world come to drive the track at the Autodromo Hermanso Rodriguez for the Mexico City Grand Prix. Best to get your tickets way in advance for this one and reserve a hotel early as the city fills up with visitors. I’ve never been, but racing fans adore it. www.formula1.com

Day of the Dead Mexico City
Flowers at Jamaica Market for Day of the Dead

November

Day of the Dead (Dia de los Muertos) – I’ve written a good bit about my favorite things to do on the Day of the Dead in Mexico City, but I find that the annual schedule for parades, events, and (the best!) the costumed bike ride down Reforma shift constantly from year to year. Best to plan to be in the city for the week of Day of the Dead (Let’s say October 29th to November 5th) and you will likely get to see everything you want. A favorite of visitors is to go out to Mixquic and see its wonderfully decorated cemeteries. This can be a crowded and transportation-complicated endeavor so prepare yourself mentally. Whatever you do, DON´T miss the Jamaica market, in fact, I can take you there if you want!

Corona Capital – Started in 2010 this music festival is now one of the biggest and most important in Latin America. Every year it seems like the headliners get better and better. This massive two-day event takes place in the Foro Sol and there are four stages, two big and two side stages, where lots of great acts have played in the past — Weezer, Foo Fighters, The Strokes, Franz Ferdinand, Billie Elish, The Chemical Brothers, Lana del Rey and tons more. I saw Regina Spector there one year and it was awesome. This being probably our biggest music event you have to get tickets as soon as they come on sale or they will be gone and/or expensive immediately.

© Jorge Antonio López Mendicuti

December

Christmas Festivities – Christmas is a super special time in Mexico City and really the best place to experience it is in the local markets with their wild displays of piñatas, poinsettias, and Christmas candies. I offer a great tour to the Jamaica market during Christmas time that people always love. Downtown they often set up an ice skating rink in the Zocalo (which is weird in 70-degree weather) and if you stick around for Dia de los Reyes, some years they pass out slices of Rosca cake and some years presents to the kiddies.

** Don’t forget the Jazz Festival in Polanco is also this month, see above

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By Lydia Carey

I have been living in and writing about Mexico for 15 years and Mexico City for almost 10 of those. My writing focuses on food, history, local culture, and all the amazing stories that this place has to tell. I also give food and history tours in the city and am the author of the book "Mexico City Streets: La Roma" about Colonia Roma, the neighborhood where I live.