Mexico City’s Polanco neighborhood has a bit of a reputation. As one of the city’s most upscale neighborhoods, it is known for its embassies, 5-star hotels and horrendous weekday traffic… also snooty fashionistas and trust fund kids. While that stereotype is not without its manifestations in real time, Polanco isn’t all bad. There are a few highlights that make this neighborhood worth a visit or even a stay while you are in Mexico City. I have stumbled upon a few and offer them up for your consideration.
Nature?
There is, in fact, some nature in Polanco. Besides the extensive Chapultepec Park, which is technically part of the neighborhood, a personal favorite, which I have written about before is Polanco’s Aviary, set on the edge of the delightful Lincoln park. The aviary houses feathered species from all over the world, including parakeets, a feisty peacock, cockatiels, ducks and others. Lincoln Park all by itself is also a pleasant wander with a range of sculptures and a few little square ponds where tiny boats race on the weekends.
Culture
Built in 1939, the vintage outdoor amphitheater Teatro Angela Peralta (corner of Aristóteles and Emilio Castelar) is a great place to catch a concert or a theatrical performance in Polanco (except during the rainy season). While the design of Carlos Slim’s museum Soumaya (corner of Blvd. Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra and Presa Falcón) is glorious, the collection leaves me a little underwhelmed (except for the temporary shows which are at times quite good). My suggestion is to take your photo in front of all the glimmering hexagons and then move on to the Jumex museum next door (Blvd. Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra #303). Opened in 2013, the Jumex hosts contemporary art exhibits from around the world that are mounted with incredible curation and curiosity.
A couple more off-the-map stops that I suggest are the Allianza Frances and National Conservatory of Music. The Alianza always has an interesting art exhibit in its lobby, they also host film series and have a little coffeeshop were you might just meet your next French friend. The National Conservatory of Music was founded in the 1800s and is the hot institution to the country’s oldest symphony orchestra. The beautiful campus has a grand hall where both student musicians and famous player from across the country come and give concerts. It’s makes for a very elegant evening in Polanco.
Neighborly Adventures
There are a couple of neighborhood tianguis (outdoor markets) that bring the neighbors out from behind their bullet-proof glass on the roof tops and apartment security guides. On Saturdays you will find a weekend tianguis wrapping around Lincoln Park’s east end. Produce and meat is in front of the Angela Peralta Theater, household goods along Emilio Castelar and food stands on the Luis Urbana side. On Fridays a market of mostly food stands sets up in front of the Soumaya Museum.
Eating
Some of the city’s most renowned restaurants (Pujol, Quintonil) are located among the leafy streets of Polanco, and while I highly recommend them, there are also several low-key (and some REALLY low-key) eating and drinking establishments that should make the Polanco list. The Biscottini Cafe (Luis G Urbina #4) is a hidden spot with delicious coffee from Veracruz and a little pastry factory in the back kitchen churning out some delectable babkas, croissants and cinnamon rolls. Klein’s (Ave Masaryk #360B) besides being full-on 1960s diner ambiance is one of the only places in the city where you can get a delicious old-fashioned deli sandwich and a milkshake. Maybe not something tourists care about but something us foreign locals fawn over.
Taco places are pretty few and far between here, but I do have same favorites that you should try inbetween living the high life on gourmet cuisine. El Turix (Emilio Castelar #212) continues to be an institution after 30 years, a tiny hole-in-the-wall place that serves slippery and hot cochinita pibil (slow-roasted sucking pig in a citrusy sauce) tacos and panuchos (deep-fried tortillas stuffed with refired beans and piled with cochinita on top). The El Rey del Suadero (Horacio #206) sells a phenomenal version of the classic Mexico City taco al pastor (more marinated pork, different seasonings, shaved off a spit like a sharwma). On the southwest corner of Ariquimedes and Horacio there is a tacos de guisados stand in the mornings and early afternoon that’s excellent.
Drinking
With about a million bars in Polanco, I’ve tried to pick a few that aren’t so full of drunken tomfoolery or snobby superficialness every night of the week. To get your feet wet, try Jules Basement (Julio Verne #93), Polanco’s token speakeasy. During the week it’s pretty mellow, on the weekend, a swanky madhouse. Check out the giant ceramic skulls inside the glass cocktail tables. Arriving at the address above you won’t think you’re in the right place, but head through Surtidora Don Batiz and take a right at the freezer door to descend into cooldom.
Another rooftop view of the city can be had at the Area Bar of the Habita hotel (Ave Masaryk #201), with a decadent fireplace and big white couches to snuggle with your beloved. For day drinking, the 1920s kitsch of the Cantina Palacio inside the Palacio de Hierro mall (Ave Moliere #222, 2nd floor) and ITS fantastic view of the city is completed with a list of cocktails infused with national pride (hibiscus syrups and hot peppers for instance). Also unmissable, the Polanco location of Licoreria Limantour (Oscar Wilde #9), home of some of the city’s finest mixologists.
Got a spot that needs to go on this list? Send me an email so I can check it out! For more neighborhood exploring check out these posts on San Rafael and Colonia Roma, and some restaurant recs divided by hood.
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